If you ever charter a boat, do it in the Greek Ionian Islands of Ulysses fame.  We were skeptical about a charter 4700 miles away but the sexy saleswoman at the Annapolis boat show beckoned like a siren and the contract was signed by the 2^nd glass of ouzo.

 

John & Gail had already been exploring Mykonos and Santorini for 2 weeks when Carol and I joined them in Athens.  We went to the Acropolis, had drinks on the roof garden of our hotel then enjoyed magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo in a Piraeus waterfront taverna I’d been to years ago…I think.

 

The next day we drove 7 hours to Sunsail’s base, enjoying  magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo at a taverna along the way on the Corinthian Sea.   We took a ferry then drove through mountains to the Ionian Sea.  Once checked in, we went to dinner in Pelaros and enjoyed magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo. 

 

We provisioned the next day in Levkastown and had lunch at a  taverna where we had magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo.  Back at Voulnaki we loaded stores and gear aboard Joive de Verve, a 40’ Benneatau center cockpit, then went to dinner in Pelaros where we enjoyed magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo.  We also began our quest for the perfect baklava!

 

We set sail for Meganisi the next morning, anchoring first for a swim and lunch off the Onassis island of Skorpios.  Hours later we tied-up Med mooring style in the village of Spartahori where we were treated to Greek table dancing!  From the harbor we trekked up the mountain to the village of homes, shops and tavernas.  There we found hilltop Mama, a 78 year old table dancer.  For reasons having to do with village women of yesteryear carrying water urns on their heads from wells at the foot of the mountain, they commemorate those days by dancing with a heavy table on their heads.  So while enjoying magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo, Mama, Carol and Gail entertained us with some pretty hot table dancing.

 

Ithaca was a must port-of-call for us because it figured so prominently in Homer’s poem The Odyssey.  We sailed from Spartahori tacking our way through the straight of Meganisi in light fluky winds.  South of Levkada we found a strong westerly breeze and Joie de Vivre kicked up her heels, making 7 knots on a starboard tack bound for Kioni on Ithaca 15 miles away. 

 

Kioni proved to be a great town with excellent tavernas serving you guessed it, magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo.  We tied up alongside of Horn, a 64’ cutter just back from a 3½ -year global circumnavigation.  Roman was the captain of Horn and author of a book about the voyage.  He was a really nice guy and invited us aboard for a tour and to gawk at the slinky babe lounging around in a skimpy bikini.  The babe had a name but like Roman’s book, it was in Croatian so was all Greek to us.  

 

A nasty front was forecasted so we sailed north to Sivota, a fjord like harbor on Levkada.  We took shelter there and also had our troublesome mainsail furler repaired by Sunsail riggers using a wooden spoon.  It proved to be a good call because in addition to a great Taverna serving magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo, the storm was a biggie.   Although we only had Force-5 winds (17-21kts) and rain in Sivota, out on the sea several maydays were heard as winds exceeded Force-8 (34-40kts).

 

From Sivota we sailed over to the caves on Meganisi.  The water was crystal clear but too deep to anchor so we took turns exploring the caves in the dinghy while the other couple waited aboard Joive de Verve.  Carol took advantage of me during our time alone in the dinghy but I wasn't complaining. We then anchored a little further up the coast for lunch and a swim, then sailed on to Vathi to rendezvous with other Sunsail boats for a last night farewell dinner at a nice little taverna serving magnificent calamari, local wine and ouzo. 

 

The next morning we motored to Skorpios again, anchoring right off the beach house made famous by the photo of Jackie Onassis romping nude.  We did our own photo shoot (with bathing suits) and enjoyed a swim. 

 

Then, right on cue, the wind came up out of the north and we made good speed back to Voulnaki close-hauled on a port tack.  Once secured at Sunsail we popped a bottle of champagne and toasted to great friends and a great vacation, then we went to dinner at a place John found in the cruising guide which proved to be the best of all the tavernas.  There Mama served us magnificent moussaka, local wine in a 6 liter bottle and ouzo…gotcha huh?

 

On the drive back to Athens we got to see a Greek goat resort…100’s of goats lounging around on the beach.  All they needed was sunglasses and beach towels. Back in Athens, some friends from work treated us to a spectacular seaside dinner, the highlight of which was red snapper cheek and eye for John and I…yum!

Ron & Carol

s/v Lasdance