s/v Trust Me entering Fairlee Creek

9 Sept - After seeing Christopher off to return to Iraq and with less than two months before our planned October departure for Florida, we took a “honeycation,” cruise around mid Chesapeake Bay. We enjoyed 9 days of near perfect sailing conditions and pleasantly cool weather, with not even a hint of rain or one of the bay’s notorious afternoon thunderstorms.

 

We sailed first to Annapolis where took a mooring out in the harbor for two days. We strolled the historic streets of this sailing town with a drinking problem, and then hit McGarvey’s Saloon and the Fleet Reserve Club. We then dined in the best restaurant in town, my Cousin Laurie’s! With an expectation that we might imbibe too much, we left our dinghy tied to Lastdance and took the water-taxi to Acton LandingPark on Spa Creek, then walked the short block to their home. Once there, Laurie and her husband Randy made us feel at home with ample drinks, Parma-crisp and olives stuff with gorgonzola cheese, and then an excellent meal of Rigatoni, sausage and meatballs with red wine, followed by a lot of sambuca. We caught the last water-taxi back to our moored boat, well satiated and with enough leftovers to feed us twice more, including a bag of excellent cannoli shells and a baker’s bag of filling.

 

The following day, we sailed out of Annapolis in a 15-knot northerly breeze. We were bound for the MagothyRiver which is due north so we then spent the next 7 hours tacking back and forth across the bay, struggling to make progress toward our destination. Teresa took turns on the helm and after dodging a huge ship in the channel east of the Magothy, she then took us through the narrow entrance under full sail. Full of confidence, she then took us into Broad Creek and brought us smartly alongside of Charlie and Val’s trawler, m/v Belle-Amie to join the anchored raft-up with John & Gail aboard s/v Tranquility. It was here we enjoyed the first of 2 “cannoli nights.” After much wine over dinner, we gathered aboard Tranquility and made our own cannoli. Fun, fun, fun…especially watching Gail devour wads of the delicious filling off her fingers.

 

The next day we all motored further up the river to Magothy River Marina. Once docked and secure, we took our dinghies over to Magothy Seafood & Tiki-Bar on Mill Creek for a few beers. Impressed with their menu, we returned for dinner later that evening and had their bountiful seafood special which consisted of a basket of hush puppies, a pound of shrimp, 2 corn-on-the-cob, 6 king crab legs, 6 steamed clams and 6 large blue claw crabs, all for $34.

 

Still eager to explore, we left the marina in the morning and meandered still further up the river, first into Cattail Creek, then Cockey Creek and finally, past Indian Village to an unnamed cove at the mouth of Old Man Creek. There we anchored next to a seemingly abandon old schooner tethered to a semi-submerged mooring buoy. Teresa and I borrowed John’s kayaks and we kayaked into small tributaries and then later we took our dinghies deeper into the countryside, exploring this sparsely populated part of Maryland.

 

In the morning we topped our water tanks and sailed in yet another brisk northerly to Tolchester on the eastern shore. I’ve always wondered about this marina with its totally exposed, narrow entrance right on the bay, so we cautiously moved from the safety of deep water toward the rapidly shoaling jetties. The current was ripping across the channel so I had to “crab” Lastdance so much, we were almost perpendicular to the entrance at half throttle before I could gun the engine and turn sharply between the jetties. The depth went from 14 feet to 6 ½ feet in seconds but then once within the jetties, it increased to 8 feet all the way to the dock.

 

After settling in, we strolled over to Charlie’s friend Stan’s boat, a 36’ Albin trawler. Stan and Jean served up pitchers of margaritas and we killed the afternoon sipping Stan’s superb concoctions on the rocks. Later, back on our own dock, we agreed that no one wanted to cook so we went to the Tolchester Beach Bar for “the best crab cakes on the bay.” NOT! I’ve had much worse but I’ve also had much much better. The view was spectacular though and they had a pretty good DJ so we ate and drank as the sun set on the western shore, then drank some more as we listened to island tunes. After 3 rounds of listening to a young woman doing some very good karaoke (pronounced kara-o-key), we left half-way through a “wanna-be-singer,” who really needs to keep her day job.

 

We departed early the next morning for the short 4 mile jaunt to Fairlee Creek, and then negotiated the VERY narrow entrance with Jelly-Fish Joel’s to port and a narrow spit of land to starboard. As anticipated, the anchorage was crowded with every description of watercraft, some in enormous 25 boat raft-ups, others alone, but all anchored every which way, many with bow, stern and side anchors!

 

I found a “hole” and dropped my anchor in 8-feet of water and after setting the anchor with 50-feet of chain; I let out additional 50-feet of chain and left my engine in reverse to bury it deeply. Belle Amie came alongside to port and then John brought Tranquility to port of him. Afterwards we transferred my anchor rode to the bow of Belle Amie to balance the raft and we then settled in to watch “the show.” The show being an increasing number of boats attempting to navigate the entrance into the harbor. We were not to be disappointed as the first of many large boats was driven aground by the fierce current.

 

For 3 days, we lounged around, swam, went ashore in our dinghies and shared many sundowners. We had pasta night aboard Lastdance, followed by the second “cannoli night,” at which we consumed the remaining shells and filling. Thank you cousin Laurie and Randy!

 

Belle Amie departed Sunday morning and later in the day, John, Gail, Teresa and me went ashore and settled in at Jelly Fish Joel’s Beach Bar. We ordered beers but we were also treated to several samples of exotic drinks by the friendly bartender. As always, the current was swift and the narrow channel was crowded with boats entering and leaving the harbor and as always, boats were regularly swept aground. When that happened, the crowd would let out an appreciative hoot but then men would wade into the water and push the boat off and send him on his way, a bit shaken but generally without damage to anything but their ego. Our friends Rich and Betty aboard their new boat, s/v Trust Me came in during the worst of the current but Rich expertly navigated the entrance, disappointing many on the shore who fully expected such a large sailboat to be swept aground.

 

Tranquility departed early the next morning and we followed several hours later when the tide was higher and the current slack. Still, I couldn’t help being apprehensive as I motored Lastdance out the narrow channel. Once in deeper water though, we hoisted sails and enjoyed a 22-mile broad reach down the bay, in a brisk 15-18 knot northeasterly breeze. We made it home to KentNarrows by 2 o’clock, having enjoyed 9 days of near perfect weather with not a drop of rain or a single thunderstorm to mar our cruise. Someone must have been looking out for us!

 

Our “new” plan is to shut down the apartment in Raleigh, move our things into storage and to sail south in early October to the Florida Keys for the winter. We’ll stop in Beaufort, NC for a couple of weeks to visit Michelle and the grandkids and see Ashley, then continue sailing at a leisurely pace, getting to Key West sometime in December. We’ll try to stay at the marina at Boca Chica Naval air Station, using it as a base to explore from. In the spring, we’ll sail back to Chesapeake Bay with a stopover in the Abacos in the Bahamas. Stay tuned.

15 August - Following an intense whirlwind 6 month courtship that included many weekends sailing aboard Lastdance and a week sailing charter in Greece, the big day arrived. With Christopher home from Iraq for 2 weeks of R&R, our small wedding party of family and a few friends gathered in Beaufort, NC at Town Creek Marina, where Teresa and I "kinda sorta" met.    
   The wedding was perfect with a warm gentle breeze and the dinner was excellent but unfortunately, my mom was hospitalized and couldn't make it and my brother Tony stayed in Brooklyn with her. The ceremony took place on the balcony and dinner followed immediately afterwards in Fish Tales restaurant at the same location. At Fish Tales, noted maritime author Ted Jones, accompanied by Michelle Groom, sang "We've only just begun," and over many martinis and vodka-tonics, Christopher bonded with Teresa's brother Jeff while our very own wedding crasher made small talk with invited guest and our grandchildren, Furi and Ali entertained everyone with their charm and good behavior. Photos in Photo Album section.
   Our plans were to do a one week honeymoon sail aboard Lastdance but in the end, we decided to delay it and remain in North Carolina so we can see Christopher off to Iraq and so Teresa could resolve some important work issues. So, for this week, we're enjoying our new roles in Raleigh and keeping a watchful eye on Hurricane Bill as it moves westward. Hope we get to see many of you during the two months before we sail south in October.

Rum, it's rum, silly

29 July - Where is the summer going? I've been commuting alternating weeks to Raleigh where Teresa and I have been making wedding plans and I've been promoting my book. Weekends we're back on Lastdance and have enjoyed some great sailing. We sailed north to Fairlee Creek and navigated the very scary and tricky entrance which brings you to within feet of the beach. We connected there with john and Gail, and then were joined by Aaron and Jackie in s/v Katz Meow and Ted and Marion in s/v T's Me. There we drank a gallon of Capt John's Pain Killers and then we dinghied ashore to Jellyfish Joel's Beach Bar where we sampled there own version of a Pain Killer but I can tell you, Capt John makes the real thing!

A week later, Teresa and I sailed off alone in a nice southerly breeze and and made our way to the Wye River. After a great sail, we anchored in Quarter Cove, opposite Dividing Creek. We sipped refreshing Mimosas, and devoured a tub of Teresa's excellent homemade Confetti Salsa. We then shared a bottle of Pinot Noir and a couple of T-bone steaks. After a second bottle of wine, we weathered out Teresa's first thunderstorm "at sea," and watched the brilliant lightening show in the sky north of us. 

Swim Call in Lovely Cove

13 July - A near perfect weekend! Drove up from Raleigh to Lastdance with Teresa and her daughter Ashley. We arrived at midnight but stopped at Red Eye's Dock Bar for a few rum & cokes. The next day we sailed north in a stiff 15-20 knot breeze to Lovely Cove, a lovely little place on Langford Creek off the Chester River on the Eastern Shore of Chesapeake Bay. We rafted up with Rising Tide, Zufrieden, Better Days and Narrow Escape, and set about to drink a 1/2 gallon of Margaritas. Ha, it was a fun! Hours later, we went for a swim and then ate grilled some Salmon and Tuna, risotto and corn and then had cookies and grappa aboard Better Days. Sunday brought us light NW winds but with a favorable current, we made it back to the marina at Kent Narrows a few hours. Sail on!

At Red eyes with Laurie & Randy

7 July - After a week sailing the Ionian Sea, some might say that Chesapeake Bay might be boring but not so. The Bay can offer up great sailing conditions and although not as exotic as Greece, interesting destinations abound on every bay, river and creek.

We drove up from Raleigh late Friday night with plans of turning in for the night as soon as we settled aboard Lastdance. It wasn't to be...I decided to begin the holiday weekend by taking Teresa for just one beer at Red Eye's Dock Bar. "One beer" became one rum and coke and then another after our friend Dave from m/v Seduction  saw us and bought a second round. We had to reciprocate so we bought him a round and another for ourselves for good measure. We turned in at 2 am and woke in surprisingly good shape at 7, for coffee and bagels at the marina.

We made the 10 am bridge and we were sailing into Eastern Bay under a full press of sail by 10:20, bound for St Michael's. With southwest winds, it was a great reach all the way into the Miles River but we encountered an #%&^@* weenie, motoring in a sailing catamaran out the narrow channel at Deep Water Point at R "14" about a mile north of St Michael's.  I mean crap...we're sailing in close-hauled, he's motoring out and we're about to meet port-to-port with plenty of room to the east but at the last minute, he turns sharply to port right in #%&^@* front of me, placing himself between Lastdance and R "14". I blow 5 blast on my horn but the banana head just smiles as he goes down my starboard rail, mere feet from us and then he and the scantily clad bimbos (and I mean bimbos) begin waving with big smiles on their ugly faces. I'm thinking...they gotta be chartering, so I yells, "Hey asshole, I'm not waving at you, I'm giving you the finger." He shrugs his shoulders and says "What?" Then the bimbo next to him yells, "We have the right of way." As they faded away astern, Teresa stared at me in disbelief but I explained to her that all the salty yelling was part of the required bridge-to-bridge comunications, covered in the Navigation Rules.

An hour later we were anchored just north of the Maritime Muesuem and joined by Rich and Betty from s/v Trust Me, which was anchored in the Roads outside the harbor. I twisted their arms and we knocked off a 2 liter bottle of Margaritas. Rich and Betty left in a mellow mood and Teresa and I remained aboard for the night, sipping wine and devouring a couple of choice filets. The sail back Sunday was good until we got to Prospect Bay so we motored back, making the noon bridge opening. Once secured we had lunch and then heard from my cousin Laurie. she and her husband Randy were in Annapolis and getting ready to go "out for a little spin" in their boat.  A half hour later they called from Red Eyes..."We're here!" - More to follow as the summer wears on!

Ashore in Vathi on island of Meganisi

July 1 - The trip had been planned since the spring of 2008 and after months of anticipation, it was upon us. Teresa drove up from Raleigh a day early and pleasantly surprised me at 2 am aboard Lastdance. The next day we drove into Brooklyn so Teresa could me my mom and then after driving through the confusing maze that surrounds Newark airport, we settled into a sliver of a hotel along routes 1&9. The next morning we departed for London and there we spent 3 really enjoyable days with our friends Jim and Claudie before flying off to Greece.

 

In Pelairos, along with Billy and Karen, we boarded Nauti Girl, a 39’ Sunsail Oceanis and after settling in, we strolled into town to the New Mill Inn, a small taverna at the top of a hill, far from the tourist haunts that line the waterfront below. There, after many toast of “yamas,” I dropped to one knee and gave a ring to Teresa, formalizing our engagement.

 

After a captains meeting the next morning, we got underway, bound for Vathi on the island of Meganisi.  We med-moored to the quay and did what sailors have been doing for thousands of years, we went to a taverna where we drank way too much Mythos beer and sampled a plate of excellent calamari. Later that night we joined our flotilla-mates for a punch party and then dinner. Everyone went back to their boats but Teresa and I remained behind with the flotilla crew and drank chipino and ate baklava.

 

We departed Vathi the next morning in a brisk 17-knot SW breeze under a reefed main and jib and tacked our way through the Straights of Meganisi. Then, after a fun hour of tacking along with a “fleet” of other boats, the “incident” occurred. Capt Dave (now aka Capt Dangerous), tacked directly in front of our boat without warning, and if not for us maintaining an alert lookout, we would have T-boned his boat. A tragedy was averted but the incident still rattles me as we missed a serious collision by mere seconds. Later that night, we recounted the incident over a lot of wine and ouzo at a taverna right on the quay.

 

A brief sail the next day brought us to Sivota on Lefkada, and after drinks at a small taverna a few short steps from the stern of Nauti Girl, Billy renamed our trusty boat “Nauti Girls.” Afterwards, we dressed and strolled off to a group dinner at Taverna Stavros where the host looked remarkably like my Uncle Carlo. As before, Teresa and I remained behind to sip wine long after everyone went back to their boats.

 

The highlight of the voyage was Kalymos town, a tiny port on the island of Kalymos. We "raced" Capt Dangerous Dave to the harbor entrance but they did a "Dennis Conner" and opted to drop their sails a mile south of the harbor and motored in, thereby robbing us of a hard fought victory  Once inside the breakwater, George, the self-appointed harbormaster did a masterful job of cramming in more than 60 boats into a harbor that was clearly designed for just half that number of craft.  George also owned the only taverna in town so he had a vested interest in giving “everyone” shelter for the night.

 

Ionian Greece proved to exceed all expectations and simple words cannot describe the beauty and antiquity of this timeless area of Greece so feel free to peruse the photos posted in the Photo Album section. There you will see what all the fuss is about. Yamas!  

Lastdance back at Mears Point Marina

27 May - I closed the cricle on this voyage today! I departed Baltimore anchorage at 0700 and motored in a very light east wind, through fog that alternated between candy cotton thickness to a light veil. Now, five hours later, my good little ship and I are secure in my old slip, with a log book of great and wonderful memories.
   It wasn't the voyage I envisioned, it was better, far better. I left at the end of October still numb over the loss of Carol but I returned today with a new lease on life, because of the bonding with my family and the love of Teresa, an extraordinarily good woman by any measure.  I'd like to say it's good to be home because this is where I lived before I left but it's Raleigh that I feel most at home now.
   Oh, I heard on the radio that there had been two home invasions in the Federal Hill area adjacent to Inner Harbor and that local mutant predators have been on a minor crime spree so I guess I got off easy the other night but it's just another reason to be armed on a boat. Sail on!

Touring USS Torsk, Baltimore

   15 May - With the arrival of yet another cold front, Bill, Ky and I agreed to delay our departure from Hampton a day. Ky chilled out aboard his boat while Bill and I went to the Virginia Air and Space Museum, just a short walk from the marina. There, we got to see some cool military aircraft and an Apollo space capsule and we even got to see the IMAX version of the new Star Trek movie. In the evening Ky hosted a great dinner of home made beef stew and rice and shortly afterwards, we retired to our own boats in anticipation of an early departure the next morning.

   We were greeted at dawn by 20 knot northeast winds and a forecast for more of the same all day with gust to 30 knots. Hmmm, to go or not to go? From my perspective, Teresa was flying into Baltimore on the 23^rd to meet me so I had to get moving so against our better judgment, we shoved off at 0600. Big mistake! After leaving the shelter of Hampton, the wind increased to 25 knots and then once we rounded New Point Comfort, we encountered the full force of very steep 6 and even some 8 foot waves, all with an unusually short period which we had to pound directly into. It was tough going as we averaged less than 3-knots, often crashing into some waves that brought even Lastdance to a complete stop.

   By late afternoon conditions began to moderate and our speed improved but it had been an uncomfortable day so Ky and I decided to call it quits and we ducked into the shelter of beautiful Fishing Bay while Bill sailed the extra eight miles to Indian Creek in order to shorten the next day for himself. Once anchored, I rowed Ky to Lastdance for drinks and dinner and soon afterwards, Admiral Hal arrived in s/v Destination and rafted to us. Destination is ex Tenacious Lady and I met Hal at my marina when he bought her last year. Hal is a retired U.S. Navy admiral and one of the nicest guys you’ll ever meet. We had Dark N’ Stormys and some good conversation, then Hal broke away and anchored Destination a few hundred feet away. After dinner I rowed Ky back to East Snail and after talking with Teresa on the phone, I was in bed and asleep by 2200.

   20 May – From Fishing Bay, we had an uneventful day motoring to Patuxent River Naval Air Station where we had slips for the night. There we hooked up with Bill and after washing down our boats to remove encrusted salt left from the day before, we enjoyed several beers and then a great dinner of linguini and white clam sauce hosted by Ky aboard East Snail. We departed early the next morning and while Ky steered a course for Herrington Bay, Bill and I set our sights on the Magothy River, 55 miles away. There we could find shelter from the south winds for the night behind Dobbins Island and I could transfer fuel from my jerry cans to my main fuel tank.

   With that goal in mind, we motor-sailed to make time but with a 12 knot south wind and a favorable current, we had already passed Bloody Point on Kent Island by noon so we decided to go all the way to Baltimore where we would rendezvous with friends for our annual Memorial Day raft-up.  Once at the Bay Bridge though, I could see I might not have enough fuel to make it so I shut down the engine and jibed my way up the bay under main and jib in a freshening 15-knot wind, while Bill motored-sailed the rhumb line to the Patapsco River. By the time I arrived in Inner Harbor, Bill had Galena anchored off the aquarium but he told me he had been asked to move within the “new” confines of a much reduced anchorage area by the Baltimore marine police. Grumbling about damn anchoring restrictions, I set my anchor even closer inshore and we settled in for the night.

  Still annoyed by the reduced anchorage area, we went ashore the next day only to discover signs that told us the free dinghy dock used for years by anchored boats, was now off-limits and that anyone landing a dinghy in Inner Harbor had to pay $15 per 5-hours! Some idiot bureaucrat in city government had clearly gone nuts but we feared my dinghy would be impounded so we paid and went ashore for wings and beer at Hooters. Hours later, Aaron and Jackie arrived in s/v Katz Meow and rafted to Lastdance. Bill rowed over and the first of the weekend parties began. Aaron made bold rum & cokes and Jackie served up great lasagna and I waited impatiently for Teresa. Finally, after 5 hours of flight and airport shuttle delays, she arrived and Bill took me to the water taxi dock to get her. Bill went back to Galena and after brief introductions to Aaron and Jackie; we retired below for the night

   The next day, Teresa and I went ashore and after strolling through the pavilions at Inner Harbor, we went to the second floor balcony at Las Tasos and ordered a big pitcher of sangria. There we imbibed the sweet wine and ate alcohol soaked fruit as we laughed and watched our friends boat’s arrive and form what would turn out to be an 11 boat raft-up. I’d been gone 7 months so it was great to see all my friends again and for Teresa to meet them. She fit right in as we began 3 full days of socializing and sharing everyone’s rum and wine. Because of the counter-productive dinghy fee, only a few of us went ashore but Terry from s/v Cloud Nine, shuttled small groups to the dock and we walked to Fells Point for a great lunch at Bertha’s Mussels. 

   On Memorial Day, boats began to depart by 10am and soon just Galena and Lastdance remained but even Galena would soon leave. Teresa was flying back to Raleigh that evening and I would have to pay the $15 dinghy fee when I brought her to the dock to catch the airport shuttle so instead, I moved Lastdance to the wall and paid the $1.25 overnight fee. That came to just $30 more than tying up a dinghy for 5 hours and gave us much more flexibility in getting off and on Lastdance during the day. We toured the USS Constellation and then Teresa treated me to a cup of ice cream before I had to begin my pre-test diet for my thyroid cancer exams next week.  After some alone time together back on the boat, I sadly watched her leave for the airport and walked back to Lastdance with an ever-so-slight slump to my shoulders.

   After a dinner of eggs, spam and leftover salmon, I watched a DVD then went to sleep by 10:30. At about 0330, I was awakened by a loud crash on deck. Someone had jumped on the boat! I bolted on deck, .45 in hand and saw a young black thug walking away from the docks edge toward a crowd of 6 or 7 other tough looking youths. I thought…damn, this place sucks. A cop soon arrived but the thugs were already gone and even though the cop assured me he would keep an eye on Lastdance, I couldn’t go back to sleep so I’m putting the time to good use by writing this log, a cup of coffee to my left, my .45 to my right.

   26 May – It’s raining and the wind is howling 25 knots from the north east so with no schedule to adhere to, I’m staying in Baltimore another day. I’ll go to the Cross Street Market and buy some fruit and veggies, and with last nights thug incident fresh in mind, I’ll move out to the anchorage for the night. If the weather improves tomorrow, I’ll sail to my marina at Kent Narrows, thereby closing the circle on this 7 month, life-changing voyage. Sail on!...As usual, photos are in the photo album page.

Bill, Ky & Ron at US Marine Corps Veterans Club, Great Bridge, VA

11 May – Grrrrrr…I was eager to get underway today but we’re delayed by a cold front! I had a whirlwind 5 days in Raleigh for Teresa’s daughter Ashley’s graduation. There was a Cinco de Mayo party Tuesday night and then we enjoyed Teresa’s Double-Nickel birthday celebration Wednesday night. Thursday night, Teresa's friend Rochelle took us to dinner to celebrate Teresa’s birthday once again and Friday night I got to meet Jeff and Sharlee, Teresa’s wild-and-crazy brother and sister-in-law.       
   Saturday was the big graduation event at NC State, followed by a great party at Tir Na Nog, the same great Irish Pub we celebrated St Patrick’s Day in. After a brunch Sunday morning, Teresa drove me back to Beaufort and we hooked up with Sailboat Bill at the Back Street Pub where we sipped cool beer and listened to tunes played by the last of the minstrels from the Beaufort Music Festival. Teresa left for Raleigh at 6pm and I found myself in a big funk at seeing her drive away but she’s driving to meet me in Norfolk next weekend. After some demon rum aboard Lastdance with Ted Jones and Bill, we went to dinner and listened to tales of Bill’s adventures in the Bahamas. The man does live large!

   The next day I finally got underway, bound for Chesapeake Bay! Along with Sailboat Bill in Galena, I got away from Beaufort at first light. We had an uneventful 68 mile trip to Belhaven but the wind piped up to 20 knots from the southeast instead of the forecasted 10 knots from the north east and we spent the night bucking and bouncing in the exposed anchorage. From Belhaven we motored to the Alligator River and with the winds forecasted to 20 knots all night from the east, we went on almost to the Alligator River bridge and tucked in close into the lee formed by eastern shore at Milltail Creek. Bill came over and we grilled a steak, drank a lot of rum and talked about our different philosophies on sailing and life.

   I’ve crossed Albemarle Sound twice. The first time in 1997 was a perfect sail in easy conditions. The second was under power in a dead calm. Now, three days after leaving Beaufort, we encountered wild and wooly conditions! After weighing anchor, we motored to Middle Ground Shoal. The wind then came up right on time as forecasted. It came up quickly and it came up strong and we were soon motor-sailing in 27 knots of washing machine like waves which became bigger by the minute; some breaking. Eventually, the wind was gusting to 31 knots with very wild conditions in the shallows as we approached the entrance to North Landing River. Several hours later, we sat well showered in the comfort of Coinjock Marina, woofing down a couple of their famous 16 oz prime ribs.

   A week earlier, Bill had heard someone hailing Ky on s/v East Snail.  We tried unsuccessfully to raise him and even called his wife Kim Loan to no avail. Then, as we finished off the last of our prime rib in Coinjock, I received a surprise phone call. “Hello Ron, this is Ky here.”  I hadn’t seen Ky in more than two years and as it turned out, he was sailing north and was just a day ahead of us at Great Bridge.  He waited for us and we rendezvoused at Great Bridge the next day. What a reunion! After shopping for dinner, we were invited into the U.S Marine Corps Veterans League clubhouse which is right there at the canal docks. There, along with Tom and Pat off s/v Swan and Dave and Jock off m/v New Fredom, a Nordic Tug, we drank way too much beer and rum and exchanged war stories with these friendly former Marines. We then cooked a pot luck dinner of Vietnamese chicken with black rice, grilled shrimp, polish sausage, baked ziti and a great salad. It doesn’t get any better!

   We got to Hampton around noon the next day. Bill and Ky anchored out and I took a slip at the friendly public docks. After naps and boat chores, we walked into town and munched on nachos and drank a local beer at Marker 20, a cool boater’s saloon. We had “just one more” at the Tap House two doors down, then returned to Lastdance and knocked off a bottle of cheap wine Bill had bought the day before.  Teresa was due to arrive from Raleigh so Ky and Bill returned to their boats to give me a chance to freshen up. An hour later, I waited anxiously for her call. We’d only been apart six days but it had seemed like an eternity so when she arrived, we had a joyful reunion and then walked into town where a street festival was going on. It is staged every Saturday night and offers plenty of food, adult beverages and live entertainment. We would have liked to linger for the “party” a bit but were both tired so after dinner, we returned to Lastdance.  

   Sunday, day six of the voyage was a washout. Another front was coming through with winds forecasted to be 25-30 knots so we opted to remain in Hampton. Ky came in from the anchorage to a slip and we ran into old friends from New Jersey, Bill and Evelyn aboard s/v Irish Mist, a Pacific Seacraft 34. Afterwards, Bill, Ky, Teresa and me went ashore for brunch at the Taphouse along with my friends Kevin, Laura and their daughter Caitlin. Bloody Marys were only 1$ and they were great. 
   Teresa and I then said our farewells back aboard Lastdance hours later, and she drove home to Raleigh for the work week but she will fly to Baltimore Friday for the Memorial Day weekend. More to follow as our winter voyage comes to an end and we enter beautiful Chesapeake Bay once again.

s/v Lastdance at Town Creek Marina

3 March – I spent several days with my daughter-in-law and grandkids this past week and also loaded stores and did boat chores in preparation for my voyage north. The engine problem we experienced last week turned out to be a broken ground wire. The break was at the terminal connector and not easily seen but after an hour of trouble-shooting, Eric, the able electrician at Town Creek Marina had me running as good as new…I hope!

   It’s now late Sunday afternoon and it’s been blowing 27 knots for two days with no end in sight. Michelle was here with my grandkids as well as her friend Lara and her baby. Along with Teresa, we had a great farewell meal at FishTales restaurant here at the marina. After a heartfelt goodbye with my family, Teresa stayed on a while longer but she just left to drive home to Raleigh. Now, I’m sitting here aboard Lastdance, sipping on some Goslings rum while surveying Town Creek and contemplating the last six months of my life here in Beaufort.

   There have been many changes to be sure. I am firmly embedded in the lives and collective memory of my grandchildren, and they in mine...I’m going to miss them big time but I plan on visiting them often during my summer visits to Raleigh. Also, six months ago I didn’t think I would even date again but I met Teresa, a wonderful woman with a keen sense of adventure and I fell in love.

   My bout of thyroid cancer was not even a skirmish compared to the battle Carol waged but I’ve had to deal with it. If nothing else, it’s a sobering a reminder that the clock is ticking and I simply cannot squander what time I have left. Still, no matter how good things seem emotionally, it’s always a struggle to move forward.

4 March – It occurred to me during the night that I’m paid up here at Town Creek Marina through May 10^th. So why am I leaving to go just 68 miles to Belhaven where I’ll be leaving Lastdance for 6 days at what will be an additional cost of $447, while I go to Raleigh to Teresa’s daughter’s graduation…Duh, it looks like Beaufort will be blessed with Lastdance’s presence yet another week.

   Sailboat Bill arrived in Lake Worth yesterday after a 3 day passage from Ragged Key and will be sailing up the coast in a few days. We may hook up here when I get back from Raleigh but more likely will connect back on Chesapeake Bay. Sail on, Bill.