November 24, 2008 |
| Dismal Swamp and Alligator River |
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Nov 3 - Underway with s/v Galena at 0630 in cold and nasty NE winds and overcast sky, a truly sucky day to put to sea. OK, we were only in Norfolk harbor, Hampton Roads to be exact, but it still sucked. We made the Dismal Swamp Canal locks at 1050 and 4 hours later we tied up at the North Carolina Visitors Dock, rafted to Oo La La and 11 other boats for the night. The forecast is for yet another strong front to move through so we may hang out here before moving on to Elizabeth City and Albemarle Sound which can be nasty in high winds. With not a drop of rum in me, I fell while crossing rafted boats to throw out my trash ashore and now my friggin ribs hurt like hell...hope I didn't break or crack one. I hate when that happens! The weather forecast for crossing Albemarle Sound is very bad so there is no room in Elizabeth City so we'll probably stay here tomorrow.
Nov 4 - Holed up with s/v Galena on Dismal Swamp Canal north of Elizabeth City along with many dozens of other boats waiting out the weather which has deteriorated to gale warning conditions on Albemarle Sound. I guess this is part of cruising but I'm impatient to get to Camp LeJeune. I've been plagued by bad weather from the get-go and have only made progress during lulls between the constant onslaught of low pressure systems. Ah, but then the sailing was great in between fronts so who am I to complain?
Nov 6 - After 2 days of waiting out the weather, Bill and I got underway in a light drizzle and motored to the locks at South Mills where we were lowered 8-feet to the Pasquotank River. From there, we had an uneventful trip in intermittent rain to Elizabeth City, where dozens of boats were still waiting out the weather in what were supposed to be 25-knot NW winds, which makes a tempest of Albemarle Sound. Galena anchored out but I wanted to take a tour of the town and get a shower so I took a slip at Pelican Marina, an incredibly friendly and clean place at only $35 dollars a day, including electricity. After a hot shower, I went to the marina's restaurant and had a bowl of piping hot Cape Hatteras clam chowder, the special of steak, mashed potatoes with gravy, a salad and 2 beers...all for $15 dollars! The forcast for tomorrow is for west winds at 10 knots, a perfect day to cross Albemarle Sound so we'll be anchoring in the Alligator River tomorrow night.
Nov 7 - Today something happened...the sun came out! Galena and Lastdance left Elizabeth City on a dreary overcast morning and motored to the mouth of the Pasquotank River. We then steered south and crossed Albemarle Sound in a flat calm which was unlike the previous 4 days when it was a tempest. By 2 o'clock, we anchored off the channel, surrounded by swamp and forest and after Bill rowed over for a few drinks, we were peeling off our shirts in the warmth of the afternoon sun. This anchorage is miles from anywhere with no wireless reception so I’ll upload today’s long and photos from Belhaven or maybe Beaufort.
Nov 8 – We weighed anchor at the crack of dawn and motored into the Alligator-Pungo canal which is totally remote and unforgiving. After observing several groundings by dummies who don’t understand what "STAY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CHANNEL” means, we got to sail the Pamlico river to Belhaven. On the way, I passed the very anchorage where Carol and I spent a magical night eleven years ago during our sail to Florida. I could almost see her smile at the end of that long hard day. Belhaven is a nice old town and Bill and I went looking for a tavern. We found Rack Time, a pool parlor with a bar, a bunch of really nice locals and a charming bartender named Teresa who after serving us copious bottle of beer, invited us back for that night’s karaoke. We did, and drank more beer but I got sleepy and wandered back to my boat, leaving Bill to do what Bill does best.
Nov 9 - Upon weighing anchor, Bill found his anchor trip line fouled around his rudder and after messing with it from his dinghy to no avail, he stripped to his skivvies and dove in the 58°F water and cleared the snag. We put in a long day of light winds and then a 14 knot strong breeze, right on the nose of course, and as we passed Oriental, I couldn’t help but remember the really fun time Carol and I had there back in 1997. If she had been with me today, she would have been bursting with excitement and she would have MADE me stop there for the night. Now, at the end of the day, Galena and Lastdance are anchored in Adams Creek, just 15 miles from Beaufort, NC. I’ll be staying on for a month with my son Christopher and his family which I’m really looking forward to. After some R&R and repairs, Bill will be moving on to Florida where I plan on hooking up with him again in December or January. Sail on, Carol. Sail on!
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2009
September Cruise
2008